The Kitchen Diary
As you stroll by the promenade leading to Miramar - with the wind in your hair and the sand in your eyes - you will notice an ancient log of wood sitting lazily atop the compound wall. The initials inscribed there demand instant attention. Amidst shunted coconut and tall palm trees, a clay stuffed rooster proudly sits near a man-made pond, which houses little fish and toads. Curious as the cat, you decide to trespass the lawns across a narrow foot bridge that leads you to the threshold of nostalgia.
As you push open the door, the
aroma of an international fusion of Latino and European spices assails up your
nostrils; and even before you realize, your stomach has taken over your
anatomy. A jar of pickle stands on a wooden counter silently seducing your
taste buds. As you grapple with the growl, the enzymes shoot to your brain
cells and your mind begins to associate and connect with everything Goan. “It
was just a random idea, a spilled thought that has grown into this beautiful
place,” says the artist of her brain child, adding that it was consummated
purely to save the Goan cuisine.
A graduate from Bombay University
from Goa College of Arts, this innately artistic personality began her own ad
company ‘creative source’, which today deals mostly with outdoor advertising. Taking
me down memory lane to the 90’s, she narrates “Goan cuisine was not happening
at that time, advertising for others cuisines made me realize that my own
heritage is dying off. Many restaurateurs were trying their hand at Goan cuisine
but none were authentic.”
Her story isn’t one of those
overnight ‘rise to fame’ legends. In fact, this tale is as seasoned as the
timeline of a pickle.“The beginning was tough. I wanted to quit, but circumstances
made me hang on. I had to adapt and adjust. We had to work backwards,” she
confesses recounting the early days. “There was a time when the waiter didn’t
turn up and I was behind the counter reading through the recipe and nervously
mixing liquids trying to prepare cocktail.” The start was an embarrassing mess,
she admits “I remember those days when my husband and me had to take orders and
we had to witness quite a few odd moments and slip ups.”
A survivor of the very old theory
of being thrown into the ocean and made to survive; it’s the response of the people
to whom she has lovingly dished out for 15 long years, that has kept her going.
“Quality and consistency is important to me. So, the honest feedback when
someone walks straight up to me and appreciates the food is what I cherish the
most.” However, she is not the one to dwell in the flattery of the praise and
readily accepts a sincere critic. “Negative criticism is also welcome and it
helps me improve and become better.”
Hailing from the bustling village
of Colva, she compares her early days as an ad agent to the changing times. “People
into advertising today just cut copy and paste from the web. Those days we had
to actually draw and illustrate; work that would prolong late into the night.
Keeping deadlines with the press before they went into print was tough, yet
thrilling.” The sloppy attitude of the locals sometimes irks this demanding
persona. “We Goans are so laidback by default that even the vinegar, which can
be produced domestically and sold out to kitchens, is not taken seriously by
the folklore. I try and motivate such people by going myself to purchase rice, coconuts,
tamarind from the local producers.”
Catching on her belief that Goan
families can offer so much to promote the cuisine; I enquired of her plans of
taking her kitchen to the world, to which she replied, “Getting the right
condiments is necessary. Going beyond Goa is possible if I get the right resources
and a good helping hand.” Further she explains that it’s more than just the
food.“Motivation is the key to my staff’s success. These people here are driven
to do something for themselves. I am happy I can help others find their path in
life too.”
“People often mistake Goan
cuisine as a part of Indian cuisine. The Brazilian chilies and European spice uniquely
distinguish our recipes from the rest of the world, “she explains. Reportedly
the only kitchen exclusively serving both traditional Catholic and Saraswat food, she has managed to reach
out to foodies from different cultures and civilizations. “24 hours dedication
is a must to run a restaurant successfully,” says an entrepreneur who has never
given in to the luxury of a break during feasts and festivals. “These are the
times when you get maximum interaction with your guests. You need to be with
them to connect and receive their expectations and reviews. Word of mouth
publicity has worked wonders for us”
This attitude and work ethics has
made her popular, however success doesn’t come easy. “They might be no
immediate returns. But one must not lose heart and take short cuts. Never down
grade your products for the sake of business.” she warns, also advising
amateurs venturing into the industry to be on guard against complacency. “Treat
every day as a learning experience. You need to accept the downfalls, work hard
and be consistent and honest with your work.”
So what does she do when she’s
not mentoring cooks in the kitchen? “I take great interest in dishing out of
the dishes - the creativity. One needs to improve and innovate, learn to change
with the times. The garden outside is very close to me and I spend a lot of
time there, just to be with nature.” A big fan of the Dire Straits and Triny
Lopez, she likes to tune in to the 70’s and someday hopes to do some social
work for the young and old. Secretively, she is passionate singer and dancer
and enjoys the role of a crowd puller at social gatherings.
Be it be someone younger to her
or older, she doesn’t like being taken for granted and is of the opinion that
parents should interact and respect the views of their kids. “My son is a good
listener and sometimes the right advice. Parents think that their children’s ideas are
not mature and wise. I find my child very sensible.”
Like the hot vapor that escaped
the nearby buyao full of fresh ‘sannas’, you will witness that warmth
and kindness steaming out of her. “Women should never say never. I believe a
woman can either make it or break it; she is the backbone, the pillar,” she emphasizes;
totally convinced that women today can overcome pessimism and make a difference.
“A woman stands for positivity; she can keep away all the evil.”
I had a feeling that I had been
here before, like a long time ago -the tang, the ambience, the warmth, the
feeling of ‘Home’. It doesn’t take long to associate the source of the Deja-vu
–Mum’s kitchen!
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